Why Do Some Shirt-and-Suit Combos Look So Awkward?

Take, for instance, a one-piece collar shirt, often used in ways that can look out of place in formal wear, especially when paired with a meticulously tailored worsted wool suit. Imagine a dark grey, three-piece worsted suit worn with a one-piece collar shirt, with the collar open wide. The suit conveys a serious, controlled elegance, while an open collar shirt has a more relaxed, nonchalant vibe. Putting the two together often creates a mismatched look that can come off as somewhat overdone.

Some might ask, “Isn’t it just a shirt with a different collar? Why can’t it be styled as formal wear?” The thing is, one-piece collar shirts are inherently different from dress shirts—most noticeably, they lack the top button that helps lock in a formal look and accommodates a tie. This missing detail means they’re not meant for ties and don’t project the structured look of a dress shirt. So, pairing a one-piece collar shirt with a traditionally styled, formal suit and leaving the collar open often feels off. The mismatch doesn’t stem from pairing a shirt with a suit, but from the clash of styles: a formal suit with an overly casual shirt creates an inevitable style rift. Pair it with a more relaxed jacket in materials like linen, cotton-linen blends, or seersucker, and suddenly, the vibe is perfectly Italian-casual.

Choosing the right pairing is crucial for a one-piece collar shirt, which finds a perfect match with something like a linen jacket, especially in spring. If you don’t already have a casual jacket in your wardrobe, consider investing in one, so you don’t end up pairing a formal jacket with a shirt that doesn’t quite fit the part.

Some might point out, “But in movies and street style, people wear formal shirts casually, with open collars and no ties. Why is that any different?” True, many people relax their formal outfits, leaving the top buttons open or even skipping the tie. This works because they’re taking a formal base and making it more casual. But when you try to make an already relaxed shirt like the one-piece collar seem formal, it can feel forced.

The one-piece collar shirt has a distinct personality with a wide range of colors and style possibilities. It has a lot of visual appeal on its own and is fun to style in casual ways. Some might argue, “What about Cuban collars with suits? Isn’t that a similar thing?” It’s a fair question. But Cuban collar shirts paired with suits can also feel off, either too forced or too much like a certain “gangster” look we see in films. Like the one-piece collar shirt, Cuban collars match better with casual suits, especially in light fabrics like seersucker, which is perfect for spring and summer.

If you’re intrigued by the one-piece collar shirt, try pairing it with more casual outerwear like a linen or seersucker jacket for a laid-back, stylish look.

What about you? Do you like wearing one-piece collar shirts, and what do you think pairs best with them?