What’s the difference between the suits worn by a female CEO and a female salesperson?

I recently came across a photo of Kim Keon Hee, the First Lady of South Korea, and it got me thinking about her outfit.

I’m not referring to her face, but rather her attire.

If you can see the subtleties in her fashion, you might not be the “master of the fashion world,” but you’d certainly be a “high-level expert.”

Let me hold you in suspense for a moment. After reading this article, things will become crystal clear.

Today, we’re talking about women’s fashion, particularly the importance of structured tailoring.

Women’s clothing is far more complex than men’s, and today, we’ll focus on one specific detail that represents structured tailoring: the waistline contour. Once you understand this, you’ll instantly recognize what structured tailoring is and how it transforms the overall look of the garment.

The Secrets of the Waistline Contour

Let’s use classic suits as an example. Casual, minimalist, or street styles may not necessarily emphasize waistline contours, making them less suitable to explain this concept. In classic suits, however, the waistline is like a signal that distinguishes between ordinary and high-end clothing.

The waistline contour is a clear indicator of craftsmanship. Poor tailoring may create wrinkles around the waist, making the overall look passable but lacking refinement.

The Key to Structured Tailoring

First, let’s get straight to the point: A high-quality, aesthetically pleasing waistline contour has several key characteristics—an outward curve at the bust, an inward curve at the waist, and an outward curve at the hips, forming a smooth, rounded shape.

You may still be trying to picture this, so take a look at a photo of Princess Kate in a Chanel haute couture tweed jacket. This is an example of how much craftsmanship is embedded in high-end tailoring.

For high-end, classic women’s suits, a beautiful waistline contour is essential.

Common Ground in Men’s and Women’s Tailoring

Interestingly, there is some overlap between men’s and women’s tailoring. This style of waistline contour is known as the “hourglass waist” in men’s clothing and is a key feature of traditional British tailoring.

However, men’s suits will never emphasize curves the way women’s suits do. Even for slim men and women with less defined curves, the effect is different because women’s clothing focuses more on creating a curvier silhouette.

Whether in men’s or women’s clothing, the structured “hourglass waist” is a sophisticated technique. In women’s fashion, this concept is taken to the extreme in designs like Dior’s iconic “New Look” collection from 1947, which is known for its dramatic waist-to-hip ratio and structured tailoring.

The Levels of Waistline Contours

On high fashion runways, you’ll see many examples of this kind of waist contour. Take Givenchy’s designs, for instance—just look at the graceful curve they achieve.

A well-defined waistline not only reflects the level of craftsmanship but also reveals the wearer’s sense of taste and even their financial status. High-end tailored suits with expert waist shaping are never cheap.

The Look of Ordinary Waistline Contours

Now, let’s examine more ordinary waistline designs. You’ve likely seen something like this before: the waist appears to be taken in, but it’s a straight line, lacking any sense of fluidity.

This type of suit is the most common on the market. Next time you’re out shopping, you’ll notice that eight out of ten ready-to-wear suits have this kind of straight-line waist.

Another common problem is poorly executed waistlines with noticeable wrinkles. In the following example, the woman is standing naturally, yet the fabric bunches up awkwardly at the sides.

There are also attempts to create an hourglass effect, but they fail miserably, with noticeable wrinkles both in the front and back, as if the shape was forced.

Lastly, there’s the H-shaped, oversized suit, which doesn’t emphasize the waist at all. While this style might look trendy, it can be a disaster for women without a perfect figure.

Conclusion: The Devil is in the Details of Tailoring

From today’s discussion, you should now understand that a truly well-cut waistline, even in looser, more wrinkle-prone fabrics, still maintains its graceful shape.

So, what’s the real difference between the suits worn by a female CEO and a female salesperson? The answer lies in the tailoring, especially in the waistline contour.