Dress Code for Men’s Tuxedos

In many international event invitations, we often see the “DRESS CODE” section, which refers to the attire requirements for participants. Especially for formal occasions, understanding different dress codes is essential to ensure appropriate attire. Below is a breakdown of men’s formalwear for various occasions to help you dress correctly for different formal events.

1. Ultra-Formal

When an invitation specifies “Ultra-Formal,” it indicates that the event is of a very high level, such as a major ceremony, state banquet, or high-profile celebration. In this case, Great-Dress is required. There are two types of Great-Dress: Morning Coat, which is worn during the day, and Tail Coat, the evening Great-Dress. Invitations that require a Tail Coat will typically specify “White Tie.”

2. Formal

This is the next level of attire below Ultra-Formal. For “Formal” events, Small-Dress is required. Small-Dress includes daytime wear such as the Director’s suit (also known as the Stroller) and evening wear like the Tuxedo. Invitations for Tuxedo events will usually indicate “Black Tie.”

3. Semi-Formal

For events marked “Semi-Formal,” an all-day Black Suit is appropriate. This is less formal than the previous two categories but still suitable for most formal events.

Note:Due to variations in dress code interpretations across different regions and cultures, the corresponding attire might differ. For example, in some places, “Formal” may refer to Great-Dress, while “Semi-Formal” might require Small-Dress. It’s advisable to look for additional cues like “White Tie” or “Black Tie” or to contact the host for clarification.

• Morning coat

The morning coat is the most formal attire for men during daytime social events and is regarded as the highest level of daytime formal wear. Nowadays, it is primarily worn at grand ceremonies such as investiture ceremonies or weddings.

The morning coat features a peaked lapel, single-breasted front, and a curved cutaway skirt with a shorter front and a longer back, extending nearly to the knee. It is usually black, although grey versions exist (as seen worn by Prince Charles in the image below). The trousers paired with the morning coat are typically grey with vertical stripes. There are several options for the waistcoat worn with a morning coat, with common choices being grey, champagne, or champagne brocade.

The complete ensemble for a morning coat includes a top hat and a cane (or umbrella)

The morning coat can be paired with an Ascot tie or a regular necktie, and the shirt can feature either a stand-up collar or a wing collar

 

• Tail Coat

The tailcoat is the most formal attire for men attending evening social events after 6 p.m. and is considered the highest level of formal evening wear. Like the morning coat, the tailcoat is used in formal occasions and is now typically worn as a ceremonial outfit. It is commonly seen at classical music concerts, grand formal dinners, and balls.

 

The tailcoat jacket features a short, notched front with a long back, forming “tails,” extending nearly to the knees. It is double-breasted with peaked lapels faced with satin, and the buttons are covered in satin (matching the lapels). A white waistcoat is worn underneath, paired with a white bow tie. The trousers must be worn with double satin stripes down the sides.

A tailcoat can only be paired with a wing-collar dress shirt. The standard design includes a wing collar, a stiff front bib, and single cuffs with cufflink holes (requiring cufflinks). The dress shirt should be worn with formal studs, and the cufflinks and studs are typically used as a matching set

• TUXEDO

A tuxedo is a semi-formal evening suit characterized by a shawl or peaked lapel; the side pockets should be trimmed with satin, without pocket flaps, and it can have either a single or double-breasted design; the buttons must be covered in satin. It is typically paired with trousers that have a single satin stripe down the side, ideally with a waist sash, and if no sash is used, a belt should not be worn. A black bow tie is usually worn with it.

 

In terms of shirts, the most common pairing for a tuxedo is a regular dress shirt with a point collar (which should have French cuffs), but it can also be paired with a wing collar dress shirt (featuring cufflink holes with single-layer non-folded sleeves)

Besides the classic black tuxedo, there are also other color variations, often with vibrant tops. While these colors are bold, they are still relatively subdued (such as red, purple, midnight blue, etc.), and the fabric is often velvet. When using reflective materials, satin trimming may not be necessary.. Tuxedos are widely used in social events and are gradually replacing tailcoats in modern society.

 

White tuxedos are quite common, especially for summer evening outdoor events, and are frequently worn by celebrities at performances, such as award ceremonies and fashion parties.

Colorful tuxedos have a more vintage style and are favored by discerning gentlemen. Some might argue that traditional gentlemen’s attire is conservative, but the opulence of menswear has existed for centuries; during the 16th and 17th centuries in Europe, particularly in the Baroque period, menswear embraced a luxurious aesthetic using fabrics like brocade, velvet, and damask, often adorned with elaborate embroidery. Thus, today, velvet and satin-embroidered fabrics are commonly used for tuxedo jackets. Of course, fashion-forward gentlemen also enjoy colorful tuxedos. Individual style can reinterpret the same outfit, reflecting either traditional gent or modern dandy aesthetics.

• Director’s Suit

The director’s suit is more of a product of the upper class that has popularized and professionalized morning dress than it is a suit specifically for board members. The style is akin to a morning suit without the tails, making “simplified morning suit” a more fitting description. Nowadays, it can serve as an alternative to morning dress.

 

• Black Suit

With the trend of simplified formalwear, a type of all-weather suit called “black suit” has become popular. This suit resembles a tuxedo but removes all satin trimming since satin is a symbol of evening wear. The shawl collar and single-button style signify formality; tailcoats, morning coats, and tuxedos all share this design, similarly, the most formal lounge suit also features a shawl collar and single button. However, a two-button black suit can also be used as a lounge suit